GENERAL FAQS
HOW DOES THIS PROCESS WORK?
First, we'll set up a free meeting to walk through & discuss what you either envision, or dread about your space. We will come up with some concepts or solutions. Quotes are free, and can be broken up into 'phases' to accomodate budgets/timelines. Some people require something more visual; we do offer construction drawings as well as 3d imagery services.
WHAT IS THE EXPECTED TIMELINE FOR MY PROJECT?
All projects are different, we do abide by the first come first serve rule once we have a deposit. Please contact us for specifics, about your job size and our current schedule.
HOW SHOULD I PREPARE FOR THE INITIAL CONSULT?
It is not a requirment, but does speed up the process when clients can show some inspirational imagery (photographs, or from the internet) of what they are interested in. Budget should be mindful of the labour involved in each project.
WHY YOU, ANOTHER COMPANY, OR MY 12 YEAR OLD NEIGHBOUR JOE?
Passion for the outdoors is an understatement. We will always try to provide the most comprehensive and ecological solution to any space. We limit ourselves to the projects we can handle, and our company policy revolves around honesty (to ourselves, our clients, and future generations).
STONEWORK FAQS
STONE VS. CONCRETE
Concrete/asphalt can be a much cheaper upfront, compared to precast concrete or natural stone, it does not last the same way. In the spring, freeze and thaw can cause cracks in concrete, or cause areas of pavers to 'lift' over time due to a number of factors. While concrete would often need to be completely replaced, pavers can be lifted/relayed in the areas of concern. Pavers will have a longer life span, and can often be a low cost fix vs starting over - like when concrete fails.
HOW ARE INTERLOCK PAVERS INSTALLED?
Where is your money going? You may be surprised to hear most of the time and labour goes into creating a sturdy base. Patios will have a minimum of 8" of compacted gravel under a (typically) 2.5" paver to ensure the least amount of disruption in the springs rollercoaster of freeze - thaw. Edge restraint is used to contain and restrain the edge bricks from moving/allowing debris in. Multiple styles and shapes of stone can be used to create a sense of space or path.
WHAT IS POLYMERIC SAND
Polemric sand is installed in non-permeable projects. This sand is swept/vibrated into the joints of the pavers, then sprayed with water to set into a flexible concrete. This flexibility allows the pavers to adjust during freeze - thaw, while blocking debris or weeds.
INTERLOCK VS PERMEABLE PAVERS
Size does matter whe debating permable vs. regular patio pavers. Large areas such as parking lots can accumulate a massive amount of water to be redirected elsewhere. Permable paving allows this water to filter through pavers/aggregate into the ground naturally in proximity to where it fell. Smaller projects/less surface area can often use regular pavers, knowing the water is being redirected to places of use, like garden beds.
BRANDS?
In our many years in the industry, we have become familiar with many of the stone companies available in Ontario. We suggest browsing through PERMACON, OAKS, or TECHOBLOC depending on availability in your area. We will bring product catalogues to pertinent quotes and walk through everything.
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WALLS & WATER FEATURES
Walls and water features, what do they have in common? They are often the most costly projects to add to landscapes, by both labor and cost of materials. We are well versed and dedicated to  figuring out the best solution, for you and your wallet.
PLANTING FAQS
PLANTING PROPERLY
First slide the plant out of the pot and look at the root structure. If the roots have made their own secondary pot, do it a favor by unbinding and breaking up the root system. Breaking off the bottom inch of a severely root bound plant can help it breath again & encourage it to root in. Your hole should be as deep, and twice as wide as the pot it came in. The level of the plants soil should be level with the new enviro, no more than 1" above to allow for settling. Backfill with a minimum of 50% original soil, to be mixed with compost or pre-mixed soil. This gives the roots a taste of what's to come, and they can strengthen themselves accordingly. Plants can think they've been repotted if planted in rich substrate different to the hard packed soil in the surrounding area. This drastically limits root growth/strength of the plant.
WATERING
The most common cause of plant death in cities is over watering, or too much TLC. Your plant needs water from you OR the mother earth x2 in the first week, x2 in the second week, weening it off in the third and forth week depending on time of year/weather. The plant needs a slow drip of water over an hour or two (bigger = longer). This ensures the water is reaching the bottom of the root ball, and is not just flowing away. The healthier/deeper the root system, the healthier the plant. A slow dripping hose, or a slow release water bag is optimal. Your plant knows what to do, how to search for water, and how to gets its nutrients, but it wont do any of these things if its being served everything it needs all summer - to just be neglected/survive with little root system in the winter.
FERTILIZING
Up - Down - All Around
This is a common, and very simple way of explaining those three numbers on fertilizer packaging. These numbers represent Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. Over fertilizing can be harmful to the environment, runoff can enter our waterways and cause algae blooms and disrupt many ecosystems. Fertilizing when necessary, and with the proper products are very important. There are many organic or natural products that can enrich the plants lifecycle - from the moment its planted. Mycorrhizae fugus being the most popular up and comer, with Root Rescue being the most public/honest with their R&D.
BIG VS SMALL TREES?
Are you looking for instant privacy, and have found the large tree of your dreams? Do it! However, most large trees in wire baskets or burlap have been field grown and spaded out to be sold. They are going to take a long time to regrow their root sytems, and they will be neglecting their upward growth until there roots are back (think 3+ years). We suggest trees in nursery pots for those who can wait, as their root systems are fully intact and wanting to escape their pots. They will need some time to acclimate, but will provide upward growth in the first 1-3 years.
MULCHING: PROS
Mulching is very beneficial to any new transplants. Natural wood chips help the soil retain moisture longer, then eventually breakdown adding nutrients to the soil. Mulch can also suppress weeds, creating a less competitive environment for the plant to root in. Our favorite mulches are natural (cedar, hemlock, pine, etc.). They have been through minimal processing and decay as wood should. Be careful not to pile too much mulch around the plant as it could start to feel suffocated (roots stay in the ground, trunk stays in the air).
MULCHING: CONS
Dyed mulches are for aesthetic purposes only. Black/red dyed mulch is created from chipped up (treated) wood from old pallets. These dyes will bleed out of the wood after any hard rainfalls, limiting their color to one (or less) season. Once the dye has been released, these wood chips are light enough to get blown around your yard and create patches in your grass. We value honesty in the products we supply, we do still install these mulches by request & with warnings of their nature.
ANNUAL VS PERENNIAL VS SHRUBS/TREES
Annual - Will survive for one year, often used in containers & fronts of borders for some spontaneity year to year
Perennial - Survives each winter, all foliage will 'die back' to the ground each year, all the energy is stored in the root structure to regrow each spring
Shrub/tree - has a woody structure that is visible in winter, can loose their leaves OR keep their foliage (evergreens). The plant is still dormant/asleep until spring.
WHAT ARE 'GROWING ZONES'?
'Growing zones' or 'USDA zones' indicate the geographic areas that are similar in temperature/weather in which plants with common needs can survive. Quinte West is considered a Canadian zone 5. Some areas have warmer microclimate (like lake effect)  can be considered Zone 6 - ex. Picton.Â
The higher the number, the warmer the climate (ex. Florida is Zone 9). The lower the number, the more cold tolerant/hardy the plant is. We suggest using plants labelled zone 5 &Â lower - these have the best chance of handling the harsh winters/hot summers common to our area in Ontario.